Hiking to Grinnell Glacier: Glacier National Park's Signature Glacier Experience

Dan Wagner
15 hours ago
8 min read

Hiking the Grinnell Glacier Trail is one of the park's signature adventures, combining turquoise lakes, towering peaks, waterfalls, wildlife, and an up-close look at one of Glacier's most famous glaciers. Beginning in the Many Glacier area, the trail travels above Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine before climbing steadily into the high country beneath the Garden Wall. Along the way, hikers are treated to spectacular views of Grinnell Lake, Mount Gould, Angel Wing, and the surrounding peaks before eventually reaching Upper Grinnell Lake and Grinnell Glacier. At roughly 10 to 11 miles round trip depending on the exact starting point and route used, the Grinnell Glacier Trail is a moderately strenuous hike, but the scenery makes it one of the best day hikes in Glacier National Park.

Trailhead elevation 4,887'

Water filterable from the seasonal waterfall halfway through the hike and Upper Grinnell Lake

Don't miss looking for wildlife on the mountainsides from Grinnell Lake and beyond

Hiking to Grinnell Glacier

The traditional hike begins from the Grinnell Glacier Trailhead near the Many Glacier Picnic Area, just down the road from the historic Many Glacier Hotel. A thirty or so vehicle parking lot is available at the trailhead, but this is one of the most popular hiking areas in Glacier National Park, and spaces routinely disappear by 7 AM during the park's busy season (July through Labor Day). Another option is using the Many Glacier boat shuttle, which crosses Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine and can eliminate roughly 2.5 miles of hiking round trip. Boat reservations are extremely popular and often sell out well in advance, so hikers hoping to use the shuttle should make arrangements before arriving in the park.

Hikers who begin near the Many Glacier Hotel or incorporate portions of the lakeshore trails can enjoy particularly impressive views across Swiftcurrent Lake toward the mountains rising behind the Many Glacier Valley.

From the trailhead, hikers begin on relatively easy terrain through the forest while traveling toward Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine. This opening stretch is a gentle introduction to the hike and provides occasional views through the trees toward the surrounding mountains.

After reaching Lake Josephine, the Grinnell Glacier Trail begins to reveal why it is considered one of the most scenic hikes in Glacier National Park. The trail follows the northern side of the lake before gradually beginning its climb into the mountains. Across the water, Mount Allen, one of the dominant mountains along the nearby Cracker Lake Trail, rises prominently above the valley, while the surrounding ridges frame the brilliant blue-green water below. Depending on the time of year and lighting conditions, Lake Josephine can take on shades ranging from deep blue to turquoise, providing some of the first truly spectacular views of the hike.

Beyond Lake Josephine, the trail begins climbing more noticeably along the mountainside. The forest gradually thins, opening increasingly expansive views across the valley. Before long, hikers can look down upon Grinnell Lake, one of the most recognizable lakes in Glacier National Park. Its brilliant turquoise color comes from extremely fine particles of rock known as glacial flour, which are created as glaciers grind against the underlying bedrock. These suspended particles scatter sunlight and give many of Glacier National Park's glacial lakes their distinctive blue-green appearance.

Towering directly beyond Grinnell Lake is Angel Wing, one of the most recognizable geological features in the Many Glacier area. The steep, pyramid-like formation rises dramatically between the lake and the surrounding mountains, creating one of the classic views along the Grinnell Glacier Trail. Behind and above Angel Wing, the enormous walls of Mount Gould dominate the skyline. At 9,557 feet, Mount Gould forms part of the Garden Wall, the massive ridge separating the Many Glacier region from the west side of Glacier National Park. The Garden Wall also follows the Continental Divide through this part of the park and is one of the defining geological features of northern Glacier.

As hikers continue climbing, the views become progressively better. Grinnell Lake grows smaller below while Lake Josephine and Swiftcurrent Lake eventually appear farther down the valley, creating a spectacular chain of lakes stretching toward the northeast. On clear days, hikers can see deep into the Many Glacier Valley while surrounded by some of the park's most dramatic peaks. This stretch of trail is largely exposed to the sun, making an early start especially valuable during hot summer days.

The open mountainsides along the Grinnell Glacier Trail are also some of the best places in Glacier National Park to spot bighorn sheep and mountain goats. Both species are frequently seen on the steep slopes and rocky cliffs surrounding the trail. Marmots and ground squirrels are also common, particularly closer to the glacier. Grizzly bears and black bears inhabit the entire Many Glacier region, so hikers should carry bear spray where it is immediately accessible and remain alert throughout the hike.

One of the most memorable sections of the Grinnell Glacier Trail comes as hikers approach a waterfall spilling across the trail. Here, meltwater rushes down the mountainside from the high country above, often spraying hikers as they pass directly alongside or beneath the falling water. During warm summer afternoons, however, the cool mist provides a welcome break from the exposed climb.

Beyond the waterfall, the trail continues ascending toward the upper basin. The landscape becomes increasingly alpine, with trees largely disappearing and giving way to rocky slopes, wildflowers, and large cliffs. Looking back down the trail provides some of the best views of the entire hike, with Grinnell Lake, Lake Josephine, and Swiftcurrent Lake appearing one after another far below. It's worth stopping occasionally during this section, both to catch your breath and to appreciate how dramatically the landscape has changed since leaving the trailhead.

Eventually, hikers reach a series of steeper switchbacks as the trail makes its final push toward Grinnell Glacier. This is one of the more demanding portions of the hike, particularly after several miles of climbing, but the destination is close. During the ascent, hikers gain a big view of the massive headwall near Upper Grinnell Lake where the 960-foot multi-drop Grinnell Falls cascades from.

After rounding the final bends, hikers enter the enormous glacial basin beneath Mount Gould and the Garden Wall and arrive at Upper Grinnell Lake. The view is one of the most impressive in Glacier National Park. Upper Grinnell Lake sits directly beneath the towering cliffs of the Garden Wall, with Grinnell Glacier spreading across the slopes beyond the water. Icebergs and chunks of floating ice are sometimes visible in the lake, particularly earlier in the hiking season, while waterfalls tumble from the surrounding cliffs. The barren rock, turquoise water, ice, and enormous mountain walls create an almost otherworldly landscape that feels completely different from the forests and lakes encountered at the beginning of the hike.

Grinnell Glacier is named for George Bird Grinnell, one of the most important figures in the history of Glacier National Park. Grinnell was a naturalist, conservationist, editor of Forest and Stream magazine, and an influential advocate for protecting the region. After visiting the area during the late 19th century, Grinnell became convinced that the mountains and valleys surrounding what is now Glacier National Park deserved permanent federal protection. He spent years promoting conservation of the region and became one of the leading voices behind the effort that eventually resulted in the creation of Glacier National Park in 1910.

Grinnell's connection to the area went well beyond simply advocating for the park. He explored extensively throughout the region, developed relationships with members of the Blackfeet Nation, and wrote frequently about the landscape and wildlife of northern Montana. Several features within Glacier National Park bear his name today, including Grinnell Glacier, Grinnell Lake, and Mount Grinnell, reflecting his enormous influence on the park's early conservation history.

The glacier hikers see today is considerably smaller than the one encountered by early explorers. Like nearly every glacier in Glacier National Park, Grinnell Glacier has retreated dramatically since the end of the Little Ice Age in the 19th century. Historic photographs show Grinnell Glacier extending much farther across the basin and occupying areas that are now exposed rock and water. Upper Grinnell Lake itself is largely a product of this retreat, forming as the glacier pulled away and exposed the basin that now holds the lake.

The modern Grinnell Glacier is actually part of a larger glacial landscape beneath the Garden Wall. High above the main glacier sits Salamander Glacier, a long, narrow body of ice clinging to a ledge beneath the Continental Divide. Historically, The Salamander Glacier and Grinnell Glacier were connected as one continuous mass of ice, but retreat eventually separated them. From Upper Grinnell Lake, hikers can look toward both ice features and gain an unusually clear perspective on how glaciers have shaped—and continue to reshape—the landscape.

Clinging to a ledge directly above Grinnell Glacier rests Gem Glacier, one of the smallest and most overlooked named glaciers in Glacier National Park. The glacier covered roughly 7.2 acres in 1966 but had shrunk to about 5.5 acres by 2015, placing it well below the roughly 25-acre benchmark used to classify active glaciers. Despite its small size, Gem has persisted because its high-elevation location, steep terrain, shade, and accumulating snow help preserve its ice.

The enormous cliffs surrounding Upper Grinnell Lake are composed primarily of ancient sedimentary rocks that were deposited more than a billion years ago when shallow seas covered the region. These layers were later uplifted and carved by enormous glaciers during repeated Ice Age advances. The result is the dramatic landscape visible today: steep U-shaped valleys, sheer cliffs, hanging valleys, waterfalls, and deep lake basins. Few places in Glacier National Park provide a better opportunity to see the effects of glacial erosion at close range than the upper end of the Grinnell Glacier Trail.

After spending time at Upper Grinnell Lake, hikers simply retrace their steps back toward Many Glacier. Although the return trip is predominantly downhill, the exposed trail can feel long during hot afternoons, particularly after spending several hours in the high country. The descent also provides another opportunity to enjoy the spectacular views that may have been behind hikers during much of the climb. Grinnell Lake once again dominates the valley below, followed by Lake Josephine and Swiftcurrent Lake farther in the distance.

Hikers who reserved the Many Glacier boat shuttle can shorten the return trip by boarding the boats across Lake Josephine and Swiftcurrent Lake. Those hiking the entire route continue along the lakeshore and through the forest until eventually arriving back at the Grinnell Glacier Trailhead. Either way, hikers should allow plenty of time for the adventure. Between the mileage, elevation gain, wildlife sightings, photography opportunities, and time spent at the glacier, the Grinnell Glacier Trail can easily occupy most of a day.

The best time to hike the Grinnell Glacier Trail is generally from mid-summer through early fall, but conditions vary dramatically from year to year. Snow can linger on the upper portions of the trail well into summer, and steep snowfields can make sections hazardous before the route is fully cleared. Hikers should always check current trail conditions with Glacier National Park before setting out. July and August typically provide the most reliable hiking conditions, while September can bring cooler temperatures, fewer crowds, changing vegetation, and an increased possibility of early-season snow.

For photographers, morning and late-afternoon light can dramatically change the appearance of the Many Glacier Valley. The turquoise water of Grinnell Lake can become especially vibrant when sunlight reaches the suspended glacial sediment, while clouds moving across Mount Gould, Angel Wing, and the Garden Wall can completely transform the scene. Wildlife is also generally more active during the cooler morning and evening hours.

Altogether, few trails showcase the diversity of Glacier National Park as completely as the Grinnell Glacier Trail. In a single hike, visitors pass Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine, climb high above turquoise Grinnell Lake, walk beside towering cliffs and waterfalls, travel through prime mountain goat and bighorn sheep habitat, and eventually stand beside Upper Grinnell Lake beneath one of the park's most famous glaciers. Add the fascinating history of George Bird Grinnell and the opportunity to witness the ongoing effects of glacial retreat, and it's easy to understand why hiking to Grinnell Glacier consistently ranks among the best hikes in Glacier National Park. For hikers visiting the Many Glacier area who can handle the mileage and elevation gain, the Grinnell Glacier Trail is one adventure that shouldn't be missed.